Sunday, 9 December 2012

Subbuteo re-paints

You can imagine my delight, as a child of the 70's, when I saw that Subbuteo had been relaunched. The  new set contains rubber players that remove the old Subbuteo annoyance of players with chunky ankles caused by over  enthusiastic super gluing following a snapped ankle incident.
I quickly snapped up a set, with the aim of setting it up at school as some sort of behaviour incentive for my difficult, but football mad, class of boys. Together with some of the lads, I built a Subbuteo 'arena', pictures of which will appear in a later blog.
As with classic Subbuteo, you can buy specific teams, however I was really disappointed to see that the Liverpool team's kit was inaccurate! With this in mind, and with apologies to Subbuteo purists, I bought an old 80s plastic Liverpool team with the aim to paint it up in the current kit.
The Picture above shows the whole team pre-painting. The existing paint job on the team was at best faded and at worst, bloody shoddy. The goalie was just a generic keeper that bore no resemblance at all to the Liverpool keepers kit of the day.The picture below shows how worn the figures were.
The first stage was to prepare the players for painting - this involved filing off mould lines and imperfections, and in the case of the figures that will represent Jonjo Shelvey and Martin Skrtel, the hair line was carefully filed away to leave the skull looking suitably bald.

 The next stage was to paint the skintone. Classic Subbuteo teams were either all white or all black (although they did mix it up in the 1990's). So Glen Johnson and Raheem Sterling were dutifully painted with Citadel Dark Flesh, whilst the rest were treated to Vallejo pale skin washed over with Old Citadel Ogryn flesh wash.

Once dried I painted over the entire kit with Vallejo Red. I painted some of the players in short sleeves and some in either long sleeves, or with 'under armour' shirts on. The result of which can be seen above.

Next came the keeper, having painted the skin, I then used Old Citadel Goblin Green to make Pepe's home kit. Hands were then painted Citadel Skull White, as the Classic Subbuteo keepers were all bare handed.

The next step will be to add the details such as badges, sponsors and numbers. Next is the decision to either just repaint the books black, or research the specific colour required by each player in  the current first team.

Sunday, 22 July 2012

28mm Napoleonic Prussian Infantry

 At last the summer holidays are here, which means I now have a little bit of time for painting! It's now full steam ahead for my Napoleonic Prussian Infantry.

I opted for a Box of Perry Miniatures hard plastic Prussian Line Infantry (1813 - 1815). The figures are nicely sculpted and have proven simple to assemble. As ever I glued the figures to a 1p piece, however, instead of the usual polyfiller, PVA glue and sharp sand, I used the new Citadel texture paint. Basically it's good old Basetex! I was quite pleased with the results, but it may prove expensive in the long run.

I have painted the figures as the 2nd Silesian Regiment. I have used a mix of old and new Citadel paints, details of which are below:

Boots, Gaiters, ammo bag and Shako cover - Chaos Black
Tunic - Kantor Blue Base with Badam Black Wash
Trousers and Greatcoat roll - Fortress Grey with Badam Black Wash
Collars and Facings - Sunburst Yellow
Webbing and bread bag - Skull white with Badam Black Wash
Musket - Vermin Brown washed in Agrax Earthshade and Boltgun metal
Buttons and sword hilt - Dwarf Bronze
Scabbard - Vermin Brown
Sword Knot - Skull white.

Next on the paint table, more Prussians!

Sunday, 10 June 2012

Gripping Beast Viking Heathguards (2)

 You can always tell when it's half term or a school holiday - I get to paint and post! Here are the second batch of Viking Heathguard.
 Next on the paint table Viking archers and then the Napoleonic Prussian Infantry.

Friday, 8 June 2012

Metal Gripping Beast Saga Viking Heathguard

When I started building my Saga Viking warband, I painted up a box of plastic Gripping Beast Hirdsmen. It was only on completing them that I realised that I would never field eleven points of Heathguard! I suplemented the Hirdsmen with Metal levies and warriors from the beast, but I felt that they did not fit in well with the plastics I already had.

It was at this stage that my OCD kicked in (come on all of us wargamers are on the spectrum) and I replaced the plastic Hirdsmen with metals (the plastics are currently on ebay).

The first 2 points worth are pictured below, painted, washed and varnished with Citadel paints.

Next on the paint tray, another 2 points of Heathguard.

Thursday, 7 June 2012

Napoleonic Prussian Uhlan Lancers

Every wargamer has got one, you know who i'm talking about - he is the hobby equivalent of the Heroin dealer (go on mate try it, it's great you'll love it!). His sole purpose in life is to spend your hard earned money on the new period or genre of gaming that he is also now playing.

Well mine, i'll not name him, but he knows who he is, don't you Stu? has finally got me to take the plunge into 28mm Napoleonics.
I have always been a little wary about painting Napoleonics, worried that my painting would not do the uniforms justice,but I finally took the plunge and bought some Prussians from Perry Miniatures. (All other nations are already being painted by guys at the Wyvern Wargamers Club (

I'm in the middle of  painting my metal Gripping Beast Viking Heathguard to replace the plastics I started with, but could not resist starting on the Prussian Cavalry. For what they are worth, the pictures show my first three, painted with Citadel paints. The bases need to be flocked etc.

Now to finish my Vikings so that I can crack on with the rest of the Prussians!

Wednesday, 25 April 2012

Saga Wargames Scenics 2 - The pond

Well you can tell the new school term has started; my hobby time has reduced to almost zero again. I have, however, managed to finish my second drop on piece of scratch built terrain for Saga (and any other 28mm game to be fair!)

The model, a small pond with a small 'duck island' in the middle, started in a similar way to the field.

The banks of the pond were made with pieces of cork sheet and then covered in polyfiller. Cork rocks were then glued into the water area.
I tried a different method with the trees this time. Unable to source rubberised horse hair this time (I was too inpatient to wait for an internet order) I purchased a bag of Woodlands Scenics 'Poly Fiber'. It's a cross between cotton wool and wire wool that simple is stretched and pulled into the desired shape. As this was my first attempt at using it I think I may have used too much -it could have been stretched further. Once the desired shape was reached I glued it onto twigs found in a local wood.
Next I spayed the fiber with ultra strong hold hairspray and sprinkled on green flock. I then repeated this process until the tree was covered. The fact that the fiber is green means I used less flock than on the horsehair.  The effect can be seen below.

 The trees were then drilled and attached to the board by wood screws.
Next I covered the bank and island in PVA glue and sharp sand. Once dried I painted the 'soil' in Homebase emulsion - Double expresso undercoat followed by dry brush highlights of chocolate and then pebble.

Lumps of foam tree foliage were glues to the bank to make bushes and these were followed by clumps of reeds in the water. The water area was then painted using Vallejo Reflective Green. Once dried the water was painted in Citadel Gloss Varnish.  To finish off the model static grass flock was glued on using watered down PVA.

The completed model (a long Saga terrain piece)

 Below,  a close up showing bank and island detail.

Sunday, 8 April 2012

Saga Scenics Part Four - Finishing Touches

The final (well almost) stage of the construction is the addition of clump foliage for bushes and scenic scatter (of flock) for grass.

I used a dark green clump foliage for bushes, which I glued on using PVA. After that had been allowed to dry I then added a light green flock using watered down PVA. I was going to add lines of flock to represent partially grown crops, but decided (with my good lady's advice) that less is more.

Close up of the trees and rocks.
The tree in the opposite corner
Four of my Bondi laying claim to the field
All I need to do now is trim and touch up the trees and varvish the whole model.
As this was my first attempt at this type of modelling, I am quite pleased with the results and, more importantly, have learned a lot of useful lessons for next time.

Saga Scenics Part Three - Painting the base

The next stage was to paint the base to look like a muddy field. Normally I use Citadel paints, however due to the size of the models this would be quite pricey. Instead I bought a range of Homebase tester pots, at only £1.49 each they are far more cost effective than any model paint.

The first step was to paint the whole base in 'Double Espresso'. Now the weird bit - I actually painted the tree trunks too. Firstly, one had split exposing the screw and secondly, the actual twig didn't look natural enough in 28mm scale!Next, I drybrushed the model with 'chocolate' (quite appropriate considering the day!)

A note on drybrushing - I am a great believer that less is more when drybrushing - it is much better to reload your brush several times and gradually build up the coats. Firstly I use kitchen towel to scrape off the excess paint and then brush off more on a separate piece of towel. Then, I 'Dry brush the back of my hand until I cannot feel any moisture, only then do I introduce the brush to the model. This process is repeated until the require shade is achieved.
A close up of the field
and again of the rocks
After only minimal drying time (enough time to remove the seal and lid from the next pot) I drybrushed the whole model again using 'pebbles'. I didn't clean the brush from the last stage, which helps the shades of brown graduate more.
I drybrushed the rocks with a slightly more moist brush to give a greater contrast between the rocks and the soil.
The final stage will involve flocking the base.

Saturday, 7 April 2012

Studley Ink

Yes, I know it's not strictly Wargaming, but hey, it's my blog!

My latest tattoo, created by Max at Studley Tattoo Studio.

Friday, 6 April 2012

Saga Wargames Scenics Part Two - Trees

I designed the terrain pieces with the intention of having scratch built trees attached to the base.
The first stage of the tree construction involved searching for twigs in a nearby copse of trees. I then glued rubberised horse hair to the twigs. (below)
Next, I affixed foliage flock to the horse hair by repeatedly spraying it with Morrisons extra firm hold hairspray, sprinkling the flock and then drying with a hairdryer. This process was repeated until the tree was covered. (below)
I then fixed the the trees to the base by first drilling a hole in the base and then attaching the tree with a thin woodscrew from the bottom of the base. I then filled in the gap around the base with filler. I had already built up parts of the base with polyfiller and then covered it with PVA and sharp sand. (below)
Next stage is to paint and flock the base.

Wednesday, 4 April 2012

Saga Wargames Scenics Part One

We had a great night of Saga at the Wyvern Wargamers club (formally Evesham Wargames Club). My Vikings performed wonderfully, played two won two. Having currently nothing on my paint table from my live projects (I have plenty of dead metal to paint) I was wondering what to do next. Paul, one of the guys at the club, scratch built a pond and this inspired me to start some scenics of my own.
To start with I sketched a rough plan onto the hardboard base and then glued cork sheet on to build up raised areas. The three pieces are: A pond, a small cultivated field and a larger cultivated field. The holes in the cork are for trees.

Malifaux Guild Mechanical Attendant

Another bot for my Malifaux Guild faction, a Mechanical Attendant.

When the model came from the supplier, one of the claws had broken off the extendable arms. I decided to cut the arms off and I think I actually prefer the model that way.

Colour pallette - All Citadel - Red Gore, Bolt gun metal, Dwarf Bronze, Chaos Black and Badham Black wash.

Maifaux Guild Guardian

The latest addition to my Malifaux Guild faction - A Guild Guardian. In line with C. Hoffman, I have painted the bot in 'Guild Red' (in other words Citadel Red Gore with a Badam Black wash).

I will finally be playing my first game of Malifaux at th Wyvern Wargamers club (formally known as Evesham Wargames Club) on Sunday 14th April.

Sunday, 25 March 2012

Malifaux Guild C. Hoffman

My latest addition to my Malifaux faction; the enigmatic C. Hoffman.
Early on in the formation of my faction, I decided that all the figures would have a single colour appear as a part of their clothing to unify them. I chose Citadel Red Gore as it closely matched the faction colour in the rules.
I have extended this idea further with C. Hoffman (and the next two figures on the paint table) and introduced the colour to the mechanical enhancements that are strapped to the figure.
I'm playing Saga at the next meeting of the Wyvern Wargames Club (formally known as Evesham Wargames Club), but hope to give the Malifaux rules a try on the second club night in April.

Sunday, 4 March 2012

My Malifaux Guild Faction.

Introducing Lady Justice, The Judge, The Death Marshalls and thier Guild Hounds.
Now to play a few games!
The final member of my Guild faction - Lady Justice.

As with all other faction members, she wears dark grey trousers and has a couple of items of 'Guild Red' clothing (gloves, blindfold and sword scabbard). Her top and boots have been given a high gloss varnish, to give them that Kate Beckinsale in Underworld look. Other items of note are her pearl handled revolvers.

Back to Saga for some more vikings.