Saga Wargames Scenics 2 - The pond

Well you can tell the new school term has started; my hobby time has reduced to almost zero again. I have, however, managed to finish my second drop on piece of scratch built terrain for Saga (and any other 28mm game to be fair!)

The model, a small pond with a small 'duck island' in the middle, started in a similar way to the field.

The banks of the pond were made with pieces of cork sheet and then covered in polyfiller. Cork rocks were then glued into the water area.

I tried a different method with the trees this time. Unable to source rubberised horse hair this time (I was too inpatient to wait for an internet order) I purchased a bag of Woodlands Scenics 'Poly Fiber'. It's a cross between cotton wool and wire wool that simple is stretched and pulled into the desired shape. As this was my first attempt at using it I think I may have used too much -it could have been stretched further. Once the desired shape was reached I glued it onto twigs found in a local wood.

Next I spayed the fiber with ultra strong hold hairspray and sprinkled on green flock. I then repeated this process until the tree was covered. The fact that the fiber is green means I used less flock than on the horsehair.  The effect can be seen below.

 The trees were then drilled and attached to the board by wood screws.
Next I covered the bank and island in PVA glue and sharp sand. Once dried I painted the 'soil' in Homebase emulsion - Double expresso undercoat followed by dry brush highlights of chocolate and then pebble.

Lumps of foam tree foliage were glues to the bank to make bushes and these were followed by clumps of reeds in the water. The water area was then painted using Vallejo Reflective Green. Once dried the water was painted in Citadel Gloss Varnish.  To finish off the model static grass flock was glued on using watered down PVA.

The completed model (a long Saga terrain piece)

 Below,  a close up showing bank and island detail.

Saga Scenics Part Four - Finishing Touches

The final (well almost) stage of the construction is the addition of clump foliage for bushes and scenic scatter (of flock) for grass.

I used a dark green clump foliage for bushes, which I glued on using PVA. After that had been allowed to dry I then added a light green flock using watered down PVA. I was going to add lines of flock to represent partially grown crops, but decided (with my good lady's advice) that less is more.

Close up of the trees and rocks.
The tree in the opposite corner

Four of my Bondi laying claim to the field

All I need to do now is trim and touch up the trees and varvish the whole model.

As this was my first attempt at this type of modelling, I am quite pleased with the results and, more importantly, have learned a lot of useful lessons for next time.

Saga Scenics Part Three - Painting the base

The next stage was to paint the base to look like a muddy field. Normally I use Citadel paints, however due to the size of the models this would be quite pricey. Instead I bought a range of Homebase tester pots, at only £1.49 each they are far more cost effective than any model paint.

The first step was to paint the whole base in 'Double Espresso'. Now the weird bit - I actually painted the tree trunks too. Firstly, one had split exposing the screw and secondly, the actual twig didn't look natural enough in 28mm scale!Next, I drybrushed the model with 'chocolate' (quite appropriate considering the day!)

A note on drybrushing - I am a great believer that less is more when drybrushing - it is much better to reload your brush several times and gradually build up the coats. Firstly I use kitchen towel to scrape off the excess paint and then brush off more on a separate piece of towel. Then, I 'Dry brush the back of my hand until I cannot feel any moisture, only then do I introduce the brush to the model. This process is repeated until the require shade is achieved.

A close up of the field

and again of the rocks

After only minimal drying time (enough time to remove the seal and lid from the next pot) I drybrushed the whole model again using 'pebbles'. I didn't clean the brush from the last stage, which helps the shades of brown graduate more.

I drybrushed the rocks with a slightly more moist brush to give a greater contrast between the rocks and the soil.

The final stage will involve flocking the base.

Studley Ink

Yes, I know it's not strictly Wargaming, but hey, it's my blog!

My latest tattoo, created by Max at Studley Tattoo Studio.

Saga Wargames Scenics Part Two - Trees

I designed the terrain pieces with the intention of having scratch built trees attached to the base.

The first stage of the tree construction involved searching for twigs in a nearby copse of trees. I then glued rubberised horse hair to the twigs. (below)

Next, I affixed foliage flock to the horse hair by repeatedly spraying it with Morrisons extra firm hold hairspray, sprinkling the flock and then drying with a hairdryer. This process was repeated until the tree was covered. (below)

I then fixed the the trees to the base by first drilling a hole in the base and then attaching the tree with a thin woodscrew from the bottom of the base. I then filled in the gap around the base with filler. I had already built up parts of the base with polyfiller and then covered it with PVA and sharp sand. (below)

Next stage is to paint and flock the base.

Saga Wargames Scenics Part One

We had a great night of Saga at the Wyvern Wargamers club (formally Evesham Wargames Club). My Vikings performed wonderfully, played two won two. Having currently nothing on my paint table from my live projects (I have plenty of dead metal to paint) I was wondering what to do next. Paul, one of the guys at the club, scratch built a pond and this inspired me to start some scenics of my own.

To start with I sketched a rough plan onto the hardboard base and then glued cork sheet on to build up raised areas. The three pieces are: A pond, a small cultivated field and a larger cultivated field. The holes in the cork are for trees.

Malifaux Guild Mechanical Attendant

Another bot for my Malifaux Guild faction, a Mechanical Attendant.

When the model came from the supplier, one of the claws had broken off the extendable arms. I decided to cut the arms off and I think I actually prefer the model that way.

Colour pallette - All Citadel - Red Gore, Bolt gun metal, Dwarf Bronze, Chaos Black and Badham Black wash.

Maifaux Guild Guardian

The latest addition to my Malifaux Guild faction - A Guild Guardian. In line with C. Hoffman, I have painted the bot in 'Guild Red' (in other words Citadel Red Gore with a Badam Black wash).

I will finally be playing my first game of Malifaux at th Wyvern Wargamers club (formally known as Evesham Wargames Club) on Sunday 14th April.